#12 Two days at São Vicente, and Flight home...

 

On my way home – I took the 10am ferry from Porto Novo, Santo Antao, after a long taxi ride from Ribeira Grande.  Arrived in Mindelo city harbor, Sao Vicente, on schedule at 11am.  Leaving Porto Novo....  

The taxi ride to the Flag Hotel Foya Branco was already arranged with a local driver, but had to get through pesky unwanted “helpers” first.  My room had a great view of the beach over the roof of the lower tier of rooms.  The hotel is good, although in spots a bit run down.  There is a restaurant with a huge kitchen, open only for breakfast.  Also, a small restaurant behind the hotel, somewhat more popular, though still small clientele.

View from my hotel room at Flag Hotel.  The hotel is located about 2 kms from Cesaria Evora International Airport.   

Temperatures here are nice in the morning and evenings, but too hot during the rest of the day.  The tiles on the balcony are too hot to stand on even briefly to take a few photos.  Too hot for hiking, and not much activity on the beach until evening. 

It is always satisfying when big plans (like a winter snowbird trip) turns out reasonably close to expectations, all the way to retuning home.  The weather in Montreal is good for the flights – be sure to follow for next winter’s voyage.  

   

Photos belong to Jaro Franta

#11 Sunday morning in Ribeira Grande....

The start of the old mountain road up to Corda and then down to Porto Novo – the Tourist Road, if you wish.  At left, is the one and only asphalt road to Xoxo.  

The newer, larger apartments have several large water tanks on their roof – has to be a really strong roof for all that extra load.  I have never seen this anywhere else....

Fairly cool at night, but a rapid rise as soon as the sun comes up over the mountains.  With the humidity relatively high, it feels quite warm.  Important to get out by about 8:30, while there is still much shade from surrounding mountains.

I get my take out pizza here at Bellcantoo, about once a week. 

This is the main drag, normally crammed with taxi-mini-vans and pickups, but never on a Sunday. 

Photos belong to Jaro Franta

#10 - Flowers on the Delgadinho Lookout

 

I have never seen a biker head up this road, which actually starts right behind where my Airbnb is. 

I asked the taxi driver, and he said that some young bike racers have gone up it.

I know who they are - some of the Cape Verde national cycling champions, and they can climb!

But my 65^th birthday is coming up soon – I cannot do those kind of rides anymore.  

However, never an excuse not to bike or hike - every day of the week!

Photos belong to Jaro Franta

#9 Hike - Corda to the Delgadinho Lookout (Cont'd) .....

Starting point in the village of Corda, about 1000m above sea level, and going to the Delgadinho Lookout, no doubt the most popular tourist spot on Santo Antão,   It is at nearly 800m altitude.

I took a taxi up from Ribeira Grande - too far to go – 12 kms up and 12 kms back.  Most tourists take a taxi both ways. 

The ride costs 1800 CVE (Cape Verde Escudos), which is approximately $20.  Besides the taxis, there is the “collective” service.  This is much cheaper, but does not depart until 11 am, which is too late.  

Walked back, all downhill, but still pretty long. 

Passing can be tricky…

A distant view of Xôxô, just to the right of center.  The road seen below is the one I bike most days of the week – it is nice smooth asphalt.

Photos belong to Jaro Franta

#8 Coculi and Boca de Ambas as Ribeiras

These are short rides, but anytime you are on a road going inland, you are going uphill – Coculi 6kms.  From there, you have a choice of two roads, both 4kms, for total of 10 outbound.  One goes to Boca de Ambas as Ribeiras, the other to Cha de Pedras.  The return ride is fun, as it is pretty much all downhill

On the bike, the seat post is made from carbon composite and has a sort of “leaf suspension” design, although this is more effective for lager bumps. 

The bike frame is titanium, which is considered one of the better materials for absorbing vibrations. 

The frame geometry is also designed for cushioning vibrations, while remaining stiff laterally.  It does that by flattening the tubes transversely to the frame axis.  You can see it below, with the wheels and crankset off. 

There was a fair number of tourists hiking along the roads, and a few riders.  Palm tree and lots of banana trees in cultivation – and, I think, breadfruit.

Photos belong to Jaro Franta

#7 Coast road to Ponta do Sol

 

The inland roads are two-lane and typically end at the end of a steep valley.  Beyond that, they turn into single-lane, steep access road or donkey trails – popular for hiking.  Ponta do Sol is only 4 kms out, but has some very steep sections.  All except the asphalt road to Xoxo are cobblestone, which are not bad if you have low-pressure tires on your bike to smooth out the ride. 

This is where my 42mm tubeless tires earn their keep.  The tires did not fit in the wheel recess in the bike box, so had to take them off, wash out all remaining sealant, and, of course, reinstall here.  This was my first time, and it went well – I swiped the tire bead with soapy water first to help get them seated.

My pump has a high pressure storage chamber to blast the tire into the rim.  Works as advertised – after a few very loud pops, the tires were properly seated.  After that, just release the air to allow injection of the sealant liquid through the valve stem (after valve core removal). 

Pump back up to 50-60 psi and shake the wheel to get the sealant liquid into any potentially leaking spots (tires do not hold pressure for long without the sealant inside).  Let sit for awhile and then reduce pressure to 20-30 psi, depending on type of surface to be ridden and rider weight.  With the 42mm tubeless tires, I could probably go down to 16 psi on the really rough stuff without risking the tire “burping”. 

Abandoned airport at Ponta do Sol – service stopped some 15 years go.  A plane was diverted due to foggy conditions, but crashed into a nearby mountain – tragic story. 

The rear wheel, with the new cassette, that goes up to 40 teeth – still not enough for some of the back roads here. 

Photos belong to Jaro Franta

#6 City of Ribeira Grande

 

My Airbnb on the fourth floor ($54 C/n) – balcony is the living room, window to the left is the kitchen, next window to left is bedroom (one of two).  Stairs only, no elevator – a very nice place.  The beginning of the old mountain road…

Many of the men here are employed in residential and other building construction.  There is really a lot of construction going on, including multi-story buildings.

Also, there are many drivers with mini-vans and pickup trucks, whose business is transporting both tourists as well as locals. 

Women are mostly employed in retail sales – small grocery stores, as well as clothing and accessories stores. 

There are also street vendors of local produce – bananas, vegetables, potatoes.  A small street market has fresh fish and other seafood, and there are stalls selling dresses, sunglasses and jewelry.

Photos belong to Jaro Franta

#5 Hiking on the old Mountain Road..

 

Hiking the old mountain road - this is the old main road to the port city of Porto Novo.

I don't think I could ride up this one even if it were asphalt – the grade is not super steep, and only a few kms, but it is just so looong...

But, next time I plan to take a ride up, and do more hiking at the top near Corda.

No water taps on the road, but there is a small restaurant near Corda.  

The road levels off near the top, but continues to go up-and-down a bit all the way to Corda.  After that, there is a very long descent into Porto Novo, in the south-east of the Island, where the ferry terminus is. 

  

Photos belong to Jaro Franta

#4 First short bike ride to Xoxo..

 

After assembling the bike, the ride to Xoxo was the perfect little test, to see that it is working ok.

Xoxo is a popular tourist spot, and I can see why.  Can’t say there were many tourists though – or much of any traffic at all.

Most roads outside of town have very little traffic. 

The Costal road has some narrow passages, as it was hewn out of the costal cliffs, which I did not like... 

And, the road to Xoxo is the only one on the Island with smooth asphalt tarmac.  

  

Photos belong to Jaro Franta